Orangutans of Kalimantan – 26th Dec – 31st Dec 2019

Welcome to my first Blog. Experiencing the Orangutans in their natural habitat has always been an ambition and to say that my expectations for the adventure were “blown away” would be an understatement.

Objectives

While the primary objective was to see and experience the wild Orangutans as they are meant to be experienced – happy and in the wild, I wanted to ensure that I got a good feel for the destination but also check out the travel plans, accommodation, food and all the little detail that you can only understand when experiencing first hand. Mission accomplished!

Where did I go

The destination was Tanjung Puting National Park. It is a national park in Indonesia located in the south – east part of West Kotawaringin Regency in the Indonesian province of Central Kalimantan. The nearest main town is the capital of the Regency, Pangkalan Bun. The park is famous for its orangutan conservation

Following extensive research, I thought that this would be where I would find the experience and adventure that I sought.

Day 1 – 26th Dec – Getting there

My flights took me from Brisbane ––> Singapore ––> Jakarta ––> Pangkalan Bun.

I left Brisbane at about 2pm and landed in Singapore’s Changi airport with just enough time for some dinner and then a short hop landing in Jakarta a little after midnight. On arrival, I had a 6 hour wait and came across a “pod hotel” in terminal 2. For a mere A$33 I got a hot shower and a spotless and comfortable bed for 4 hours of shut eye.

Day 2 – 27th Dec – First Orangutans

Waking up refreshed, it was off to find my airline (little difficult to find with such a large and busy airport) and another short hop to Pangkalan Bun arriving at about 7:30am. There I was met by my guide, Arbain. A 20-minute car ride to Kumai where we boarded the Klotok. A Klotok is a very stable wooden boat of about 17 m long. This was home for the next 4 nights.

Shortly after boarding we floated on the Klotok across the Kumai River and on to Sekonyer River, the main river in Tanjung Puting National Park. Heading up the river, it was not 30 minutes when Arbain spotted our first Orangutans. A female feeding in the high canopy. This was a sign of things to come and it wasn’t long before we came across a large male in the trees along the river. There were plenty of birds to see along the way as well.

We stopped at one of 3 ranger stations for lunch. Sitting on my Klotok eating lunch in the jungle was one of those things that everyone should experience once in their lives. The ranger stations are both educational and operational hubs in the Tanjung Puting National park. It is close to these that the rangers put out food for the rehabilitated Orangutans living in the wild to supplement their diet. There is absolutely no human contact and as authentic as can be with rehabilitated Orangutans. After lunch we headed to the feeding place early and spotted a beautiful female with twins. Orangutans make such good mothers not letting their babies of their backs, sides or fronts until the babies are 3-4 years old. As food was placed out a few more came down to feed allowing us to get some good pics.

As we returned to the ranger Klotok, Arbain suddenly stopped and looked up, and sure enough there was another in the trees above us – intrigued as to how he spotted this – he pointed to some freshly dropped fruit – the knowledge of the jungle is so important.

Heading back to the mouth of the river we saw an amazing array of monkeys including Gibbons and Long Tailed Macaque’s.

We tied up along the reeds for the night and dinner was served – meals were all fresh, wholesome and more than sufficient. I headed off for a good night’s sleep, listening to the sounds of the forest, under the mosquito net that was expertly assembled by the crew.

Day 3 – 28th Dec – Deep into the forest

An early start to the day with a 5am wakeup. After a quick shower in the clean and neat bathroom on board (cold water only – but suits the environment) breakfast was enjoyed at the table with a view.

Shortly after we boarded a small “speed boat” and embarked on our next adventure which took us up another less travelled river deep into the national park. After approximately 3 hours we checked in at the very remote ranger station and set off in search of Orangutans and it wasn’t 10 minutes before we spotted this handsome fellow peaking at us through the reeds.

We moved a short distance down-stream, tied our boat up, removed our shoes and jumped into the water to get closer. This male was so friendly and hung around posing for the camera. We were quite at ease being careful not to “invade his space” but he made the perfect model. He was soon joined by two females and after plenty of pics it was time to leave them. An experience that is forever etched in my memory.

As we headed back down the narrow winding river to our Klotok, it was a great time to reflect on this absolutely amazing experience and watch the amazing bird life and playful Proboscis monkeys and Long Tailed Macaque’s. Along the way we spotted a critically endangered Siamese Crocodile (estimated to be less than 1,000 left in the wild). All Orangutan bucket list items ticked in a morning. We got back to the Klotok and after lunch we headed back up-river to the second ranger station.

At the ranger station we walked to see the feeding time with three female Orangutan’s and their babies. A few Wild Pigs strolled past to say hello. A troop of Black Handed Gibbons came swinging past in the jungle making an incredible noise – unfortunately not close enough for any decent photos.

Overnight was spent moored at the ranger station.

Day 4 – 29th Dec – Deep into the forest

Another early morning but well worth it – 5am and sitting on the observation deck with a steaming cup of Java coffee watching the forest come alive as the animals start to go about their business makes any early morning worthwhile.

After breakfast, we set of for Camp Leakey, the site where Dr. Mary Gladikas established the site to for her research and later rehabilitation program for orphaned Orangutans. At the feeding we were also “treated” and lucky enough to observe Orangutan “play time” – some of the parents with kids there were in for some tough questions later that day. About 12 Orangutans and a large group of wild pigs popped in to say hi.

After dinner that night, we set off for a night trek. With the eternal hope of seeing a Sun Bear or an elusive Clouded Leopard. Instead were treated with a Tarsier Monkey (similar to the African Bush baby), siting some interesting birds including a sleeping woodland parrot and a woodpecker peeking out to say hi!

Day 5 – 30th Dec – Down to Business

Another early morning with good coffee on the observation deck watching the forest inhabitants go about their playful ways, I watched a troop of long tailed Macaque checking out a local jetty and a few boats. Always seemingly having fun. Then we set off back down the river toward the mouth stopping in at ranger station 2 another feeding and even spotted a beautiful mock viper slithering through the bush.

As is customary with Endangered Adventures, we have to give back. Part of my contribution on this trip was spending some time planting trees. These are all native seedlings that assist with re-forestation.

On the cruise upriver Arbain and I mapped out the format that I liked for future trips and firmed what I believe will be a great long-term relationship.

That night, we tied amongst the reeds near the mouth of the river and a huge thunderstorm developed around us. It bucketed down for a few hours and sleep came easy listening to the rain.

At this time, we had a little mobile service and Arbain checked out my flights for the next day which was fortunate as my 3:30pm flight to Jakarta had been cancelled and moved to 8am. Always pays to re-confirm.

Day 6 – 31st Dec – Homeward Bound

As my adventure drew to a close, I sat on the deck with my early morning coffee to watch an enormous (approximately 3 metre) King Cobra swim past. I know I will be back soon.

The flights home were easy and I saw the New Year in at Changi Airport in Singapore and was home early on the 1st of Jan 2020.

Thank you for reading my blog and stay tuned for the next one.

Summary of Species encountered:

  • Orangutan
  • Proboscis Monkey
  • Long Tailed Macaque
  • Black Handed Gibbon
  • Wild Pig
  • Siamese Crocodile
  • Mock Viper
  • Tarsier Monkey
  • Woodpecker
  • Woodland Parrot
  • King Cobra
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